Day 6 - 7 Chobe National Park - stalked by lions

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Photo Album: Chobe National Park - 4x4 Camping Safari
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Early in the morning, I parked my rental car under a shady spot in the camping ground, well sort of !

I shalt be away for 4 days, taking a 4x4 camping trip into the nearby Chobe National Park, and then 2 days at Victoria Falls, in Zimbabwe over the border.

Chobe National Park is at the extreme north of Botswana, bordering with Namibia, Zambia and Zimbabwe.

The pick up for the 4x4 Safari arrived 30 minutes later than expected. The driver had to pickup passengers from the border post with Zimbabwe first, then from the ferry coming over from Zambia as well.  The latter group was late. This highlights the location of Kasane, being at the confluence of 4 countries.

The tour started after a good, though late breakfast was served, then we boarded a boat for a cruise up on the Chobe River.

Over the next 2 and half hours, we were introduced to the wide varied floras and faunas of this part of Chobe River, and the historical and recent border conflicts with Namibia over some of the islands along the river.

A small colorful bird - the agile Lilac Breasted Roller

African Buffaloes

an Ibis

First they started to descent from the bushy hills,

And they kept coming with their children,

Now, they are ready, and the young ones are hesitating....

Finally, the adults showed the example.

Yep, they were all in...

In the deep...

and at the other side...

And there are other observers....

The hippos like to stay in the water the whole day to keep cool and avoid sunburns....never stand between them and the water, we were told.

A lone Waterbuck on an island,

These were putting on their sun-blocks after emerging from the water, 

Another herd that was crossing, these scenes were repeated many times during the day.

After a quick lunch, we then went on to our Safari 4x4 truck, which are built out of Toyota Landcruiser chassis, starting our land based part of the tour.

Basically, the route we were taking, was to go along the south bank of Chobe River westwards.  Animals normally congregate near the water, especially, in the dry winter season, for quenching their thirsts.

As soon as we get to the river bank, another spectacle of elephants crossing the river was right there for our cameras, 

We then were introduced to herds of impalas, kudus, sables.......the problem was, to try to remember all the unfamiliar names that our guide was telling us.  Our camera lens are stretched to their limits as some of them are quite shy and stayed in the distance.

The alpha male of a herd of impalas, who may have a harem of 40 females.

Kudu, very shy, normally hiding behind bushes

A sable

Suddenly, our guide was called on the radio....and we rushed....and just behind some bushes....a whole family of sleeping lions.

They generally are nocturnal, in fact, most big cats are, saving their energy for the cooler nights, and darkness, to do their hunting.

Then suddenly, one female woke up, and walk right up to only 5 meters from our car, and squat....did a poop, had a look at us, and went back to her slumber.

There are plenty of these Guinea Fowls in the bush, or even impalas, are of little interests to the big cats, as they are too small to waste their efforts, unless they are really hungry.

The ubiquitous Guinea Fowls

Humans are also of little interests to Lions, unless they are hungry or are irritated.

And a little Starling checking us out.

What I like most, are these gentle giants, walking by with their elegant sways, never rushed, but would glance at you with curiosity.

And a buffalo rush, to cross the river in the dusk...

As we got to our camp site, we were treated to this poetic after glow with zebras strolling along side the river bank.

Here we are, dinner is being prepared, with a camp fire.

During the evening, when using the torch to shine into the surrounding bushes, I could see the odd red glowing dots, which were reflections from eyes of animals. They were around, whatever they may be.

We were briefed by our guide, that during the night, before coming out of our tent, we should always use our torch to survey the surrounding bushes, and listen carefully before moving out.

I decided to bring an empty water bottle in, instead of having to go out in the middle of the night.

Whatever wood they were using for camp fire,  it lasted a lot longer than the ones in Australia, I think they were African acacias, which are hardwoods.

Camp shower

Just before breakfast was served, our guide told us to get on the truck quickly, and we rushed off.

A pair of young males lions were walking by near the waterfront.  When they saw our vehicle, they reluctantly walked away....somewhat annoyed with our presence...

They probably were juvenile brothers, who had just been kicked out of their family to start their own family.  This is not uncommon and for a practical reason, the alpha male may not want them around to eventually become competition for dominance.  Such is the life of the jungle.

Soon into the drive after breakfast, we were treated to sights of many birds and animals, like yesterday, there were so many new names to remember.....

Along the way, we can see damages to trees ( de-barking ) such as the baobob tree below, are endemic.  They are caused by elephants chewing on their trunk.  How much of a disaster to the tree populations is, is beyond my knowledge, however, our guide did mention that in Zimbabwe, they were once considering culling Elephants to redress the situation, but that was rejected on the ground that insufficient studies were made. 

Between late morning and 3 p.m., we retreated to our camp site, for lunch and an afternoon siesta, the reason being, during this time of the day, most games are resting, as it is too hot for them.

In the afternoon drive, we then focused on searching for that, elusive Leopard or Leopards.  But we kept seeing something else...

And this as well, 

And here are the shy Elands, making a fleeting appearance across our track.

As we ended our second day with another glorious sunset, we still had not seen a Leopard, even with the sharp eyes of Kathy, one of our fellow passenger, who was able to locate many animals for us !

As we were chatting away in front of the camp fire, we could hear some lion roars approaching.  After a little while, the guide alerted everyone, to get into our tent, zip up, and stay in.  He remarked that we should be safe in the tent as lions treat them as a big rock.  We left the camp fire on.

We were stalked, probably by the same two juvenile male lions we saw yesterday. For the next four hours, whilst falling in and out of sleep, I can feel the stomping sounds and roars, probably within 20 meters or so.  Mine being the most exposed, without any bushes adjacent, so the empty drink bottle was put to good use during the night.

Although it was scary, then again, I trusted the professionalism of the guides, and they are experienced, and were there to protect us.

When the morning came, we can see these lions lying around in bushes not very far from our site.

But they kept distance, and were never a threat.

So it was time to pack up and leave, and drove to meet our pick up vehicle, for those of us who only have a 2 day tour.

Along the way, we were still searching for leopards....but sadly, for me, none was seen.

3 of us have now finished our 2 nights 2 day tour, while the others would continue for a few more hours for their third day tour. 

Remarkably, I was later told by one of the fellow passengers who stayed on, with pictures, that they sighted a leopard soon after we left.........that hurt !!

Something was odd, and to this date, I still have not worked it out.  At every contact with the tour operator, I indicated that I would like to do a 2 night 3 day tour, but they indicated that there were only space available for 2 night 2 day tour.  Given that we were in peak season, I accepted that.

However, when I left the group, there were places in the vehicle unfilled, so where is this availability issue?  They could have my money, and I could have sighted the leopard.  

Such is life and luck !  I am sure, with the long trip and the many safari parks ahead, a leopard can't be that difficult to find....sure !?

What's left to do, was to hurry back to my car, and getting ready to cross the border to Victoria Falls, Zimbabwe.

Next Post : Victoria Falls, a glimpse of Zimbabwe