Day 63 - 64 Kruger National Park self safari (1)

Previous Post: Day 60 - 62 Kingdom of  Swaziland & the boiler (?)

Photo Album: Kruger National Park Days 1, 2
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After stamped out of Swaziland, finding no cannibals or heat hunters, except quite a interesting small country, which I should return in the future to witness the annual Reed Dance Festival, I went straight north to Komatipoort, the south-western gateway town to Kruger National Park.

It was a 70 Km drive from the border post with Swaziland. On arriving Komatipoort, I looked for and found a camping shop to buy a special power connector for South African campers, the type they used in National Parks here.

Then it was a short drive to the South-western gate of Kruger National Park, Crocodile Bridge. I can see why it is so named, as it straddles across a river, most likely infested with crocodiles.  

I can imagine the scene where herds of buffaloes migrating across, or impalas just drinking water by the side, with the crocodiles burying in the muddy water, waiting for that opportunity to grab......but unfortunately, it was Sept., a bit of out of season, everything was quiet.

So I read the book of maps given to me by the rangers after verifying my bookings.  I had done all the bookings and payment whilst online back a few weeks ago when in Port Elizabeth.  However, the accommodation for the first night was still not booked as nothing was available near where I thought I was going to end up.

So my plan is to go up along the western boundary of the Park, which borders with Mozambique, go as much north as I can, and turn east to exit at Orpen Gate on the eastern boundary, there must be something along this route, I hope.

Unfortunately, the route I have taken seems to be quite dry, which is somewhat expected, in mid Spring, and even some of the waterholes are dried. So the sighting of animals are few and far between compared to a couple of months ago.

Rains had not quite arrived yet !

A red eyed starling grooming a giraffe.

And never miss the agile and very beautiful lilac-breasted roller.  I just wished for once, I could capture a proper photo of these little things, preferably in flight, and with agreeable light conditions.  Am I asking for a lot ?!!  I think all the Planets have to align before that happens !!!

A herd of Wildebeest here...

and herds of Zebras there.

There are quite a few bird watching hides provided, unfortunately, birds had not quite returned in great numbers yet.

The Hippos are doing what they do best during day time....whiling away in the mud.

When I arrived at Orpen Gate, 240 Kms later, it was almost gate closing time.  

I asked the gatekeeper would he know where I can find accommodation for the night. He pointed me to go onto a side track for about 10 Km. There it was, a number of semi-permanent tents were setup for guests, including dinner, for a reasonable price. 

It was very roomy with two single beds, a self contained hot showers and toilet.

Why not ! So I can get back in early tomorrow, and continue searching for that illusive leopard.

And they served vegetarian for dinner as well.

The manager of the camp was happy to organise a breakfast pack for me, so that I can get out early, hopefully to catch some actions, as the morning is usually the most active for predator animals.

So I was into the Gate, fueled up, still somewhat in dusk, embarking on my 2nd day, trying to hunt down a leopard....any leopard will do !!  I was getting desperate....

As more light broke through...my hope faded, but let's not forget, there were still plenty of wildlives to be seen.

A feisty Guinea Fowl staring at my intrusion.

And of course, more hippos...

And this horn bill, took an interest at my morning snack....sorry, I didn't mean to be mean, but there are rules, almost universal in every National Parks all over the World,  ......nothing for you, kiddie !

Behind the hides, these soared by.

Let's go down that direction and check out what can be sighted along this dry river.

And they roamed around behind the bush..

A large herd of African Buffaloes, no crocodiles there...

This an "Animal Sightings" notice, pinned at the rangers office of every camp, showing with color dots, representing which one of the Big Five animals had been sighted in the last 24 hours...albeit to  help dumb tourist like yours sincerely !   But remember this is "history", not real time.

There are sightings of leopards, but I just was not there at the right time.

A harmonious bunch of Wildebeests and springboks in the grassland.......hope there is a leopard waiting to pound....but with my luck  !!!

And the kudu with his partner, staring at me warily.

After after two days, there was not a sign of any leopard for me....ending at Letable Camp for the night.

And at the waterhole there, only these bunch of hippos, not a worry in their little world there.

And there were two more days to go in Krugers.

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Day 60 - 62 Kingdom of Swaziland & the boiler pot (?)

Previous Post: Day 57 - 59 Pietermaritzberg to Hluhluwe

Photo Album: The Kingdom of Swaziland
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The job today is to cross another country border yet again, into the unknowns of the small Kingdom of Swaziland.  The only thing I knew about the Kingdom, were the 14 wives of the King, and the annual wife selection...

It also conjured up images of captured explorers in boiler pot.....were there real cannibals tribes!!!

Now it is the time to find out and see for myself. 

So I embarked on the journey from my camp site near Hluhluwe, saying goodbye to the chirping birds that woke me early.  

The border post at Golela was about 120 Km away, and I had to make a stop at Mkuze to visit the supermarket.

Fortunately, Swaziland uses the South African Rand, so I needed not to change money, and I was told there are plenty of ATMs in the capital, Manzini.  That much I knew so far.

South African side of Golela border post

With the letter from the rental car company, which costed $50, the border crossing was a non-event, and the permit for the car was a princely sum of US$ 4.

30 minutes later, after having to return to the immigration to correct the wrong date on my entry stamp (she forgot to turn the date on her stamp, and that was mid-morning ! ), I was in, wow !

But I don't know if this is the Kingdom's flag or the Royal Standard....or the invention of a loyal subject.

I was on a highway to the capital, Manzini.  So far, everywhere seem much the same as South Africa.

Where were the boilers ?

Instead, there are plenty of logging plantations. They were established as a measure of economic developments, so as to maintain autonomy from South Africa which completely surrounds this country.  While having been a Protectorate of the British, South Africa etc., it is now an independent country since 1963.

The road, or more correctly, the highway to Manzini is in excellent condition, flanked by neatly arranged fields, tree plantations or just pure nature. Nothing much different from South Africa.

The capital Manzini though small, has a typical city center, 

comes with all the attendant traffic jams and honks.

And there are KFCs almost at every turn.

After a short and quick tour of Manzini central, being late in the afternoon, I quickly searched for a lodge, and ended up at one in Ezulwini, in the middle of a grove of tall trees.

Could that had been a "stewing pot" in its heydays!!?  The all too genuine friendliness of the staff worried me, and they were so eager to start up the heater to warm the water !

But the most exciting thing happened that night, was to locate a bottle of gas for starting the shower heater.....in the middle of a blackout.

After toying with the idea of visiting a couple of the National Parks, I decided to skip them this trip, as they are really good for hiking and longer trips, my time was limited.  It seems there isn't much in the way of wild games here, perhaps the years of plantation & logging have an long lasting effect.

The Royal Residence is just down the road from the camp, so that was the first stop of the day.

Ezulwini is where the Royal Residence is situated, and is also the location of the annual big Umhlanga, or Reed Dance festival, where thousands of maidens are gathered for a week's of festivities and ceremonies, usually ended with the King personally choosing another wife.

This is the ground where the final ceremony is usually held, just in front of the Royal Residence, where the King's final decision is made.

I was told, when the Reed Dance Festival is held, it is absolutely chokkas in Swaziland, and very early bookings are necessary for poor tourists like us.

Next, off I went to a nearby gorge, to have a taste of local culture.

And it was thoroughly enjoyable.  But watch out for that head hunter there....

And here is the bot.....barely big enough for a goat.

And we enjoyed the show together with a large group of local school boys.

A very interesting tour was given as we walked into a typical native home, comprising of a number of huts and the Alpha Male's main hut.

A pillow, a stool, or both ?

A very low entrance, almost having to crawl to enter.

Head of the family, a wife has to be invited in....

After seeing the traditional culture, there is also the modern and urban face of Swaziland exemplified by the shopping center next door.  Not much different from your typical Westfield, except much smaller in scale.  The supermarkets are no different from any other contemporary cities throughout South Africa, and for that matter, the World.

The National Museum is always a good place to learn about the history, the people and their culture, this is no exception.

And there are always school children eager to learn .....this was to repeat a few more times as I traveled through this little country.

And here is King Sobuza II, the present King's father, mausoleum.

So it was a leisurely day of culture and history, and it was time to go further north, towards Kruger National Park.

Here are a few snaps at a brief stop at Mbabane, the second largest city of the Kingdom.

Further pushing north, the urban scene gradually usurped by natural features and rural villages...

And again, more school children out there on their excursions. learning about one the country's major hydro scheme.

And here is the tariff board for a guide to take me to see some hidden native rock arts.

This is another important source of incomes for the country, timber mills.

The night was spent in a small hotel just next to the border post of Mananga with South Africa, ready for an early morning crossing.

Certainly, I had learned to not let those pre-conceived images affected my view of any country or people, an actual close encounter is the best way to learn and understand.  This brief visit opened my eye.

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