A 3 month self drive safari trip through South Africa, Botswana, Namibia, Lesotho and Swaziland.
Sunday, 21 January 2018
Epilogue
After completing the 68-day trip to Southern Africa, drove through 5 countries ( South Africa, Botswana, Namibia, Lesotho and Swaziland ), in a small 2WD sedan, it was a real eye opening experience for me.
That was my first ever trip to the Continent, and it did not start well, in fact, almost deadly. With the near death experience of being mugged in the center of Johannesburg, strangled to immediate unconsciousness by three thugs, I was on the verge of leaving for the airport the next day.
But somehow, I gathered the shattered confidence, and decided to continue... thereward was extraordinary.
The rest of the trip was, by any measure, against my experience with similar road trips across other continents, a very unforgettable and remarkable experience, in many ways.
On the outset, I must admit, like many people, I was uninformed about this part of the World, not expecting the experience detailed in all the posts, after Johannesburg that was, to be completely so positive.
It is not surprising to be face-to-face with so many wild lives, so many precious moments, even the camera had not been doing justice, at least not me anyway. Nowhere in the World that I have been to so far, prepared me for the emotional experience, stalked by lions in the middle of the night, seeing elephants playing in mud and waterholes, the casual and swaying elegance of giraffes etc., all are impossible to repeat in any other continent, in a wild context. All these are unique to Africa.
However, the major surprises, are the people and the cleanliness of the environment.
I encountered many young, friendly, witty and intelligent staff and managers servicing my needs, in both black and white races, and their professional attitude and quality of services, are at least equal to similar establishments in other countries.
All the facilities, tourism as well as general, are of good standards, certainly very functional, clean and safe. Chaos are exceptions rather than the norm.
Outside of Johannesburg central, I had always felt safe in security context, though I must admit, I seldom venture out at night out of habit. But there were not corrupt polices trying to find excuses to wriggle money out of helpless foreign tourist, save the only incident out of Francistown in Botswana, where I actually breached a traffic regulation.
Generally, I found the road conditions are good to excellent. There are many dirt roads in Namibia, but they are of good conditions in populated areas. The roads in South Africa and Swaziland are of international standards in general. However, I have read about the bad road conditions in Lesotho,
ALL and ALL, Southern Africa is a region I would definitely return for more....especially, Chobe National Park, Vic Falls, Etosha National Park, Cape Town, the Drakensberg etc. plus other great locations that I missed this time.
Thursday, 9 October 2014
Index
2014 Southern Africa Self Drive Adventure
( Botswana, Zimbabwe, Namibia, South Africa, Lesotho, Swaziland )
In 68 Days and 17,400 Km
Day 6 - 7 Chobe National Park - stalked by lions
Day 8 - 9 Victoria Falls, a glimpse of Zimbabwe
Day 10 - 11 Long Drive from Kasane to Maun ( Okavango Delta )
Day 12 - 13 Mokoro ( canoe ) camping safari in Okavango Delta
Day 14 Okavango Delta air safari
Day 15 - 4x4 Safari into Okavango Delta
Day 16 - 18 (a ) Crossing into Namibia & the full of character Ngepi
Day 19 - 20 Popa Falls - Roy's Camp ( Bushman Tribe visit )
Day 21 - On The Way to Etosha N P ( a very private camp site )
Day 22 Etosha National Park Day 1 of 3 ( an elephant march )
Day 24 Etosha National Park Day 3 of 3 (Lions midday quickie )
Day 25 - 26 Twyfelfontein ( UNESCO Listed Ancient Rock Engravings )
Day 27 - 28 From Deserts to the Atlantic Coast ( and a Namibian Wedding )
Day 29 - 30 Heading into Namib Naukluft National Park
Day 31 - 32 Sossusvlei Dunes and beyond (a champagne breakfast in the dunes )
Day 33 - 34 Luderitz ( Diamonds are forever )
Day 35 - 36 A mini Grand Canyon in Southwestern Africa
Day 37 - 39 Spring's in the Air -The Northwestern Cape Flower Route to Cape Town
Day 40 - 41 Exploring Cape Town
Day 42 - 43 Greater Cape Town and Cape of Good Hope
Day 46 - 48 Garden Route to Port Elizabeth
Day 49 - 51 On the way to the Drakensberg Range
Day 52 - 54 Exploring & Hiking the Drakensberg Range
Day 55 - 56 Up Sani Pass to Lesotho and the big crunch in the engine bay
Day 57 - 59 Pietermaritzberg to Hluhluwe
Day 60 - 62 Kingdom of Swaziland & the boiler pot (?)
Day 63 - 64 Kruger National Park self safari (1)
Day 65 - 66 Kruger National Park ( 2 )
Day 67 -68 Soweto and saying goodbye to Africa
Epilogue
Friday, 3 October 2014
Day 67 - 68 Soweto tour and Johannesberg airport
Previous Post: Day 65 -66 Kruger National Park self safari (2)
Photo Album: Soweto
Note: Click an image to enlarge, tap "ESC" key to return.
After 66 days on this great Continent of Africa, in Southern Africa in particular, and the last four days navigating through Kruger National Park, it was time to head back to Johannesburg, preparing for my departure, the end of this trip.
Malelane Gate, at the Southwestern corner of Kruger National Park, is about 400Km from Johannesburg, and a further 30 Km to Soweto, where I had planned to stay for my last hurrah for this trip.
Why Soweto ( history ) ? Isn't it quite unsafe, with its notority as a ghetto, a place where a lot of the violent incidents took place during the Apartheid period? Once a hotbed of anti-apartheid movements, and Mandela's last long term residence before being captured and incarcerated for 27 long years, it simply is an interesting place, from the history point of view.
There are a few questions of similar nature that I wanted some answers, superficial it may be, due to the time available, but certainly interesting, nonetheless. But is it safe? Especially given the near-death experience on day one of this trip in Johannesburg downtown. I struggled with this for much of the trip, and talked to many travelers who had been there....the answer was quite definitely YES, if I do it with a local guide or in a tour group. I was introduced to a popular backpacker hostel by other intrepid international travelers, where I can stay as well as joining their guided tour on push bikes.
So I'd made my booking with Lebo Backpackers, with clear directions how to find them, and they assured me, that it is quite safe if I get straight to them.
The drive from Malelane Gate of Kruger National Park to Lebo, took about 6-1/2 hours....Lebo was a little tricky to find, but with some help from the locals, it wasn't too bad....and the locals seemed friendly as well.
I was definitely late for any tours, but, hey, I arrived.
My first impression was, the township is no longer a shanty town like it used to be, as seen on TV news etc., but is certainly not middle class, like those I'd stayed in Cape Town...certainly seem safe, though the test would be, to walk in there, as a stranger, alone in a quiet alley.
Lebo was in a party mode when I got there, it was the boss's birthday....and I couldn't locate him for a little while.
So it seemed, I missed the guided tour on bike. But they promised to get a guide to take me out for a tour in my car. So I joined in the fun a little whilst waiting for my guide to finish his drink.
And here is the birthday boy....the boss.
And here comes my guide, Jimmy, finishing his drink before we head out.
Next we drove pass the Dorothy Nyembe Park, named after one of the leading ANC activists, who was imprisoned a couple of times, who also established the ANC Woman's League. There seems to be plenty of rubbishes, unfortunately.
However, brick houses are now the norm in a once shanty town.
And Mandela's old residence before he was thrown into prison for 27 years and briefly after his release. It is only a facade, the original house is a humble brick cottage, however, I dare suggest that it is probably an above average house of that era.
And Desmond Tutu's old residence, who jointly received a Nobel Peace Prize with Nelson Mandela and the then South Africa President, F.W. DeKlerk who together negotiated an agreement to end apartheid and brought on the first non-racial democratic election in South Africa.
Unfortunately or me, it was too late, both museums were closed.
The next place we visited was an iconic site of the 1976 students uprising in Soweto, read the history here. This picture of Hector Pieterson, a young student who was shot, carried by another student with his sister running along side, was headline news around the World.
So my brief tour of Soweto ended before darkness fell.
For what it is worth, the fact the South Africa had been able to wrangle free from Apartheid, and was successfully transitioned to majority rule from a hatred and potentially violent environment, free of bloodshed and recriminations, one has to pay very high regard to Nelson Mandela, Desmond Tutu and FW Deklerk for their vision and ability to guide the nation through that difficult period and beyond. Soweto has plenty to remind us of the difficult and bloodied past of South Africa, and how easily it could have been the other way, the violent way.
I was advised to park my car into the hostel's compound, and the night went quietly after the end of the birthday party late that night.
It was an uneventful trip to the airport the next morning. Returned the car, checked in, then up up and away......Beautiful Africa, I'll be back.
Photo Album: Soweto
Note: Click an image to enlarge, tap "ESC" key to return.
Links for previous posts are on the left. Expand the month tags to see posts for that month.
After 66 days on this great Continent of Africa, in Southern Africa in particular, and the last four days navigating through Kruger National Park, it was time to head back to Johannesburg, preparing for my departure, the end of this trip.
Malelane Gate, at the Southwestern corner of Kruger National Park, is about 400Km from Johannesburg, and a further 30 Km to Soweto, where I had planned to stay for my last hurrah for this trip.
Why Soweto ( history ) ? Isn't it quite unsafe, with its notority as a ghetto, a place where a lot of the violent incidents took place during the Apartheid period? Once a hotbed of anti-apartheid movements, and Mandela's last long term residence before being captured and incarcerated for 27 long years, it simply is an interesting place, from the history point of view.
There are a few questions of similar nature that I wanted some answers, superficial it may be, due to the time available, but certainly interesting, nonetheless. But is it safe? Especially given the near-death experience on day one of this trip in Johannesburg downtown. I struggled with this for much of the trip, and talked to many travelers who had been there....the answer was quite definitely YES, if I do it with a local guide or in a tour group. I was introduced to a popular backpacker hostel by other intrepid international travelers, where I can stay as well as joining their guided tour on push bikes.
So I'd made my booking with Lebo Backpackers, with clear directions how to find them, and they assured me, that it is quite safe if I get straight to them.
The drive from Malelane Gate of Kruger National Park to Lebo, took about 6-1/2 hours....Lebo was a little tricky to find, but with some help from the locals, it wasn't too bad....and the locals seemed friendly as well.
I was definitely late for any tours, but, hey, I arrived.
My first impression was, the township is no longer a shanty town like it used to be, as seen on TV news etc., but is certainly not middle class, like those I'd stayed in Cape Town...certainly seem safe, though the test would be, to walk in there, as a stranger, alone in a quiet alley.
Lebo was in a party mode when I got there, it was the boss's birthday....and I couldn't locate him for a little while.
So it seemed, I missed the guided tour on bike. But they promised to get a guide to take me out for a tour in my car. So I joined in the fun a little whilst waiting for my guide to finish his drink.
And here is the birthday boy....the boss.
And here comes my guide, Jimmy, finishing his drink before we head out.
Our first stop was a local supermarket, to pickup some food for my final night. It is pretty much the same as any other supermarkets I've been throughout South Africa so far.
And Jimmy explained to me how the 1976 uprising started from the school nearby with a peaceful student protest against forced use of Afrikaner in teaching that turned into a violent suppression.
Next we drove pass the Dorothy Nyembe Park, named after one of the leading ANC activists, who was imprisoned a couple of times, who also established the ANC Woman's League. There seems to be plenty of rubbishes, unfortunately.
However, brick houses are now the norm in a once shanty town.
Vikakazi St. is the only street in the World which once housed two Nobel Laureates, Nelson Mandela and Bishop Desmond Tutu, and was the epic center of the major uprising in 1976 against apartheid. This signs describes the situation of the street during that period.
Various paraphernalia outside Mandela's House museum.
And Mandela's old residence before he was thrown into prison for 27 years and briefly after his release. It is only a facade, the original house is a humble brick cottage, however, I dare suggest that it is probably an above average house of that era.
And Desmond Tutu's old residence, who jointly received a Nobel Peace Prize with Nelson Mandela and the then South Africa President, F.W. DeKlerk who together negotiated an agreement to end apartheid and brought on the first non-racial democratic election in South Africa.
Unfortunately or me, it was too late, both museums were closed.
The next place we visited was an iconic site of the 1976 students uprising in Soweto, read the history here. This picture of Hector Pieterson, a young student who was shot, carried by another student with his sister running along side, was headline news around the World.
After the ending of apartheid, the 16th of June was subsequently designated as the Youth Day of South Africa.
So my brief tour of Soweto ended before darkness fell.
For what it is worth, the fact the South Africa had been able to wrangle free from Apartheid, and was successfully transitioned to majority rule from a hatred and potentially violent environment, free of bloodshed and recriminations, one has to pay very high regard to Nelson Mandela, Desmond Tutu and FW Deklerk for their vision and ability to guide the nation through that difficult period and beyond. Soweto has plenty to remind us of the difficult and bloodied past of South Africa, and how easily it could have been the other way, the violent way.
I was advised to park my car into the hostel's compound, and the night went quietly after the end of the birthday party late that night.
It was an uneventful trip to the airport the next morning. Returned the car, checked in, then up up and away......Beautiful Africa, I'll be back.
So it was the end of my 68 days road trip through 5 countries in Southern Africa, a 17,382 Km trip, an absolute experience of a life time.
Wednesday, 1 October 2014
Day 65 - 66 Kruger National Park self safari (2)
Previous Post: Day 63 - 64 Kruger National Park self safari (1)
Photo Album: Kruger National Park (2)
Note: Click an image to enlarge, tap "ESC" key to return.
My first two days in Kruger National Park started from Crocodile Bridge Gate at the southeastern corner, I drove up along the eastern boundaries, and then went west to Orpen Gate on day 1. From there I went further north and ended up in Letaba Camp on the second evening.
But I still had no luck with finding a leopard, let alone sighting one from a distance !!
On the morning of the 3rd day, I was still very optimistic that something would bring me that precious leopard !!
From Letaba Gate, I started to head south after exploring the surrounding area a little bit more.
In the rainy season, I can imagine this part would be flowing with a lot of water.
But I did not see much in the way of wild lives there, even at this low level of water.
Except a monkey family, enjoying the peace.
This rhino has a shortened horn, perhaps one of those that had it sawn in order to protect them from poachers.
And I slowly work my way south from Letaba Camp towards Skukuza Camp, along the central median line between the eastern and western boundaries of Kruger.
The third day started with a lot of expectations, but ended with a whim, no Leopard....how clear cut can that be !
So the third day ended at Skukuza Camp.
I started early at Skukuza Camp, sitting by at the waterhole besides the camp, enjoyed a very moody sunrise. But there wasn't much around.
So I got out of the camp, continuing south, towards the Southwestern corner of Kruger National Park, still trying to sight a, so far elusive, leopard or two !
I decided to search around this big rock, as I was told, other than hanging around tree, they like to hide themselves behind boulders....
The search was getting desperate by the hour, after all, it was the last day.
All pretty ordinary sightings, until.........wow, what are these, just lazying underneath a shady tree.
They couldn't be.....OMG !
And a closer look....
And then other cars saw my stop, and more are congregating..., they were awoken, and dashed.
Were they leopards.....no, they were cheetahs. Don't get me wrong, I was still very delighted and surprised by such a close encounter with them. The last and only one I had ever saw was in Etosha National Park in northern Namibia, chewing on a kill, at a long one-wood drive away. Were it not for the disturbance from other cars, I would have a better picture of them !!
Quite a good outcome, anyhow !
But to be honest, the chance to sight a leopard is getting lower as the day wore on, they are not day time animals.
As I drove by a waterhole, I had lunch in the car, whilst observing 3 young elephants playing in the water.
It seemed that the new entrant into the water, the dry one, was trying to join the two wet ones...but they other two seems to ignore him, so he left, somewhat cheesed off, I guess.
And the two left in the water, was getting really intimate...and this happened....interpret it however you want.
Not a bad luncheon show. And a little kudu watched on as well.
And more of them are around the area, having their family fun.
The afternoon wore on without any other significant sightings, other than this small family of Rhinos near Malelane Camp, where I stopped for the night.
So after 4 days in Kruger, without sightings of any lions or the ever evasive leopards, I was ready to his the sack, and prepared for the final drive to Johannesburg.
Early next morning, after packing up, I had one final drive around Malelane, hoping to catch a last minute glimpse, of a leopard, without any success. Even close to an area named, Leopard Creek ....sorry got to go.
But on my way out to the Malelane Gate, I was blocked by a mexican standoff of these two stubborn Rhinos.
First it was two, then comes a third,
And the ensuing traffic jam....on both side.
Photo Album: Kruger National Park (2)
Note: Click an image to enlarge, tap "ESC" key to return.
Links for previous posts are on the left. Expand the month tags to see posts for that month.
My first two days in Kruger National Park started from Crocodile Bridge Gate at the southeastern corner, I drove up along the eastern boundaries, and then went west to Orpen Gate on day 1. From there I went further north and ended up in Letaba Camp on the second evening.
But I still had no luck with finding a leopard, let alone sighting one from a distance !!
On the morning of the 3rd day, I was still very optimistic that something would bring me that precious leopard !!
From Letaba Gate, I started to head south after exploring the surrounding area a little bit more.
In the rainy season, I can imagine this part would be flowing with a lot of water.
But I did not see much in the way of wild lives there, even at this low level of water.
Except a monkey family, enjoying the peace.
This rhino has a shortened horn, perhaps one of those that had it sawn in order to protect them from poachers.
And I slowly work my way south from Letaba Camp towards Skukuza Camp, along the central median line between the eastern and western boundaries of Kruger.
Probably some finches with their nests hanging from the trees.
The third day started with a lot of expectations, but ended with a whim, no Leopard....how clear cut can that be !
So the third day ended at Skukuza Camp.
I started early at Skukuza Camp, sitting by at the waterhole besides the camp, enjoyed a very moody sunrise. But there wasn't much around.
So I got out of the camp, continuing south, towards the Southwestern corner of Kruger National Park, still trying to sight a, so far elusive, leopard or two !
I decided to search around this big rock, as I was told, other than hanging around tree, they like to hide themselves behind boulders....
The search was getting desperate by the hour, after all, it was the last day.
All pretty ordinary sightings, until.........wow, what are these, just lazying underneath a shady tree.
They couldn't be.....OMG !
And a closer look....
And then other cars saw my stop, and more are congregating..., they were awoken, and dashed.
Were they leopards.....no, they were cheetahs. Don't get me wrong, I was still very delighted and surprised by such a close encounter with them. The last and only one I had ever saw was in Etosha National Park in northern Namibia, chewing on a kill, at a long one-wood drive away. Were it not for the disturbance from other cars, I would have a better picture of them !!
Quite a good outcome, anyhow !
But to be honest, the chance to sight a leopard is getting lower as the day wore on, they are not day time animals.
As I drove by a waterhole, I had lunch in the car, whilst observing 3 young elephants playing in the water.
It seemed that the new entrant into the water, the dry one, was trying to join the two wet ones...but they other two seems to ignore him, so he left, somewhat cheesed off, I guess.
And the two left in the water, was getting really intimate...and this happened....interpret it however you want.
Not a bad luncheon show. And a little kudu watched on as well.
And more of them are around the area, having their family fun.
The afternoon wore on without any other significant sightings, other than this small family of Rhinos near Malelane Camp, where I stopped for the night.
So after 4 days in Kruger, without sightings of any lions or the ever evasive leopards, I was ready to his the sack, and prepared for the final drive to Johannesburg.
Early next morning, after packing up, I had one final drive around Malelane, hoping to catch a last minute glimpse, of a leopard, without any success. Even close to an area named, Leopard Creek ....sorry got to go.
But on my way out to the Malelane Gate, I was blocked by a mexican standoff of these two stubborn Rhinos.
First it was two, then comes a third,
And the ensuing traffic jam....on both side.
After nearing 10 minutes, Seeing no imminent resolution, I decided to turn back and found another route to the highway. Finally, ending my Kruger National Park safari at Malelane Gate after 4 days.
Though I did not see any leopards, I wasn't too disappointed, and will try again in a few years time, returning probably during June / July seasons to witness mass migrations of the various species. I really look forward to that.
So it was then, all the way highway traffics to Johannesburg, and I was wonder what would be waiting for me in Soweto, as I had decided to booked into a hostel in Soweto for one night, before my departing flight......I hope that my research were done right, after all, Soweto had a reputation during the Apartheid era.
Though I did not see any leopards, I wasn't too disappointed, and will try again in a few years time, returning probably during June / July seasons to witness mass migrations of the various species. I really look forward to that.
So it was then, all the way highway traffics to Johannesburg, and I was wonder what would be waiting for me in Soweto, as I had decided to booked into a hostel in Soweto for one night, before my departing flight......I hope that my research were done right, after all, Soweto had a reputation during the Apartheid era.
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